Scenic drive along the North Cornwall Coast through Boscastle to Bude

The route heads north along the coast through Tintagel and Bossiney passing the pretty Rocky Valley and on to Trevalga, which has stunning coastal views a short walk from the road, then descends into Boscastle. It briefly turns inland to the pretty village of Tresparrett passing St Juliot Church which was restored by Thomas Hardy. The route then follows some of Cornwall's most rugged coast passing through Crackington Haven, the beatiful woodland at Millook and across Widemouth Bay to Bude. At this point you can either head back on the A39 or opt for the longer route which turns inland and heads back through the canal villages of Helebridge and Marhamchurch through Week St Mary to the bronze age hill fort at Warbstow. The longer route comes back through the pretty wooded valleys of Lesnewth and Minster.

  • Longer route:47 miles round trip (2.5 - 3 hours driving time)
  • Shorter route:42 miles round trip (1.5 - 2 hours driving time)

Map of the route


The outbound route is in blue, the shorter return route is shown in red and the longer return route is in yellow. You can double-click to zoom in and drag to scroll the map, and click on any of the icons for more information. You can also view a larger map in a new window/tab.

Directions

King Arthur's Great Halls in Tintagel
King Arthur's Great Halls
Bossiney Haven near Tintagel, photographed at low tide
Bossiney Haven
Stained glass in St Piran's Chapel, Trethevy
St Piran's chapel, Trethevy
Coastline near Trevalga between Tintagel and Boscastle
Coastline at Trevalga
Old farm buildings in Trevalga
Farm buildings in Trevalga
Forrabury Church in Boscastle by the coast
Forrabury Church
Boscastle Harbour on the North Cornish coast
Boscastle harbour
Boats beached in Boscastle Harbour at low tide
Boats at Boscastle harbour
Cobweb Inn in Boscastle
Cobweb Inn
Crackington Haven at low tide
Crackington Haven at low tide
Coastline near Crackington Haven
Coastline at Crackington
Millook Haven
Millook Haven
Rock formations at Millook Haven
Widemouth Bay
Widemouth Bay
Waves breaking over rocky ridges formed by upended strata at Bude
Upended strata at Bude
Bude Canal in Winter
Bude Canal
Marhamchurch
Marhamchurch
Week St Mary
Week St Mary
Door of Old College in Week St Mary
Week St Mary Old College
Warbstow Bury
Warbstow Bury
The Celtic wayside cross at Lesnewth church
Lesnewth wayside cross
Minster church in Boscastle
Minster church
Wayside cross at Fenterleigh, near Tintagel
Wayside cross at Fenterleigh
View over Tintagel from lane to Trelane
View over Tintagel
  • Turn left onto the B3263 and drive to Tintagel. The road comes to a roundabout opposite which is King Arthur's Great Hall.
  • King Arthur's Great Hall was built in the 1930's by a custard millionaire whose company is thought to have invented "hundreds and thousands". The halls of chivalry are built from 53 different types of stone and are big enough to hold 1000 people. 72 stained glass windows by Veronica Whall (a pupil of William Morris) tell the story of King Arthur and show the Coats of Arms and weapons of the knights. Over two hundred million people have visited the Halls since they opened in June 1933.

  • There is a car park to the left next to the King Arthur's Arms if you want to explore and possible stock up with fudge for the journey at Granny Wobbly's Fudge Pantry. Turn right at the roundabout in Tintagel and drive along the High Street to Bossiney.
  • Only a large mound next to the chapel remains as evidence of the twelfth century castle at Bossiney. Almost certainly the castle was built by Reginald, the illegitimate son of Henry I of England who made him Earl of Cornwall. According to legend, The Round Table of Camelot is supposed to be buried under the ruins of the Castle and on the eve of the summer solstice, the Round Table will appear when King Arthur and his knights are due to return.

    Bossiney was one of a number of small parliamentary boroughs established in Cornwall during the Tudor period. Sir Francis Drake was elected MP for Bossiney in 1584 after giving his election speech from Bossiney Mound. War broke out with the Spanish in 1585 and his attention turned to their Armada.

  • Drive out of Bossiney and down the hill and up the other side to Trethevy.
  • About 10 mins walk along the main road towards Boscastle from Rocky Valley, just at the top of the hill is Trethevy with the mediaeval St Piran's Chapel and old well (follow the signs to the waterfall). The path signposted to the waterfall leads on to St Nectan's Glen.

  • Continue to follow B3263 to Trevalga.
  • The entire village of Trevalga is owned by Marlborough College - a public school in Wiltshire. It was left in trust so that the village and parish would remain unspoiled for future generations. Consequently there are a number of original old slate buildings that have remained unchanged for many decades. In 2010, the college was told that it was breaking charity law by owning a hamlet, and thereafter placed the entire estate on the market causing uproar amongst the tenants, and became know as "The Battle of Trevalga" featuring in the national news and a radio 4 documentary. The legality of the sale is being disputed by the Trustees and Tenants of the estate and the sale has been suspended until this is resolved.

  • From Travalga, follow the B3263 towards Boscastle. Just before you reach Boscastle is Forrabury. A road to the left leads to the church.
  • Forrabury (St. Symphorian's) Church on Forrabury Common near the cliffs was originally built over 900 years ago and featured in the poetry of JS Hawker as "the silent tower of Bottreaux". It has no bells because, a story tells, the ship carrying them was hit by a freak wave and went down just off the coast with only one survivor. In Victorian times the main part of the church was rebuilt and extended significantly but the original Norman tower was left intact. There's tea and coffee and a kettle available in the church for thirsty visitors (more info).

  • After exploring Forrabury, take the B3263 down into Boscastle.
  • The steep-sided valley of the river Valency forms a sheltered natural harbour at Boscastle. As well as being a fishing harbour, Boscastle was once a small port (similar to many others on the north coast of Cornwall) importing limestone and coal and exporting slate and other local produce.
  • Carry on along the B3266 out of Boscastle up Penhally Hill. After passing a staggered crossroads (left to Beeny and right to Trewannett), take the next right to St Juliot church.
  • St Juliot's Church is signposted on the right from the road from Boscastle to Crackington. It is a beautiful location with its door facing out across the valley. It was renovated by the author Thomas Hardy (whose novel "A Pair of Blue Eyes" describes the area).

  • Follow the road past St Juliot church until you reach a T-junction, turn left to Tresparrett. The Horseshoe Inn (originally a blacksmith's) in Tresparrett serves real ales and food.
  • In Tresparrett go straight across the staggered crossroads until you reach another where you turn left. This brings you to a staggered crossroads at the B3263. Go straight across and follow the coast road to Crackington Haven.
  • Crackington Haven is a pebble beach at high tide but quite a large sandy beach at low tide. There is a fairly large car park with a couple of cafes and a pub just behind the beach, and toilets by the track down onto the beach. Although it gets reasonably busy in Summer, the large beach at low tide and car park means it doesn't get too crowded.

  • From Crackington Haven, follow the road north along the coast through Dizzard down a steep hill to Millook.
  • Millook Haven is a pebble beach for most of the tide though there is some sand at the very lowest part of the tide. The cliffs behind the beach have impressive zig-zag folding patterns formed 320 million years ago. The rocks are part of the "Crackington Formation", thin layers of sandstones and shales, deformed by the tectonic plate collision at the end of the Carboniferous period that crumpled the earth's crust giving rise to the tors of Bodmin Moor.

    The undisturbed history of Millook Valley woods (now owned by the Woodland Trust) and location in a sparsely populated area of the north Cornish coast offers visitors a sense of stepping back in time. The broad-leaved woodland is criss-crossed by footpaths with some great views over the valley. There are bluebells in Spring and loads of blackberries and sloes in Autumn. Other interesting occupants include dormice, otters and smooth snakes. It is designated a Site of Special Scientific Interest, an Ancient Woodland Site and an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty.

  • From Millook follow the coast road north to Widemouth Bay.
  • Widemouth is the southernmost of the Bude beaches. As the name implies this is a substantial stretch of sand and faces west into the Atlantic. Consequently, when there is a big surf running there can be some absolutely monster waves at Widemouth which can make you wonder why going surfing seemed like a good idea at the time. The size of the beach means it's never that crowded even in summer. In the autumn and winter it's a good place to see expert surfers.

  • Follow the coast road towards Bude.
  • Whilst much of rock along the Tintagel and Boscastle coast is slate, the rocks around Bude are sandstones and shales. Where the softer upended rock layers have been eroded by the sea, series of ridges have been formed such as at the sides of the beaches at Widemouth and Sandymouth creating many rockpools.

  • In bude the road crosses the Canal and immediately on the other side is the main car park which also contain the Tourist info centre.
  • In Victorian times, Bude was a popular seaside resort and many of the Victorian buildings remain. Possibly inspired by the sandstone being quarried in Bude and heated in lime kilns, the Victorian inventor who invented limelight built his home here (grandly named Bude Castle) which is now a heritage centre.

    In more recent times, Bude has become famous for its Jazz Festival in August. There is a Tourist Information Centre in the main car park.

  • From Bude carry on along Bencoolen Road onto Kings Hill (A3073) through the hamlet of Kings Hill and onto the A39.

At this point you can opt for the shorter route by following the A39 south through Wainhouse Corner and Otterham Station and following the signs to Tintagel though Slaughterbridge, alternatively you can follow the instructions below for the longer route:

  • Follow the A39 down to Helebridge where the Bude Canal now ends. Turn left towards Marhamchurch into Helebridge where a pair of bridges cross the river and the canal.
  • The sandstone around Bude was used as a source of lime to improve the fertility of the acid soils around Bodmin Moor.

    "the quantity which is every season carried away from different parts of the coast for the purpose of manure almost exceeds belief. From Bude, in the parish of Stratton it has been ascertained that in one day as many as four thousand horse loads have been taken."
    Transactions of the Royal Geological Society of Cornwall 1818.

    Bude Canal was built to carry lime inland and the original canal system spanned 35 miles. This included "inclined planes" (hills in a canal!) where canal boats were hauled uphill using waterwheels or in one instance VERY large buckets of water. Today, 2 miles of canal remain filled with water at Bude. The canal is popular with fisherman as it's one of the few watercourese in Cornwall where you can catch coarse fish. It's also a nice spot for a leisurely walk. You can pick up some leaflets (70p) from Tintagel Visitor Centre for "Bude Canal trails" - some circular walks with information about the history.

  • From Helebridge follow the road coming off the A39 to Marhamchurch.
  • This pretty village was named after the fifth century Celtic Saint Marwen, who founded a monastic settlement here. The 14th Century church of St Marwenna, with its magnificent (and heavy!) old oak door and 'sanctuary knocker', and intricate slate floor, stands in a beautiful position, surrounded by thatched cottages. Just over the road is a stone building which was built using the stone from a deconstructed village school once known as 'Church House'. The reconstruction was completed in 1873, and the new school opened.

    If you're around on the first Monday after the 12th August, make for the Marhamchurch Revel to see the Revel Queen crowned by Father Time in front of the church, and a procession to the Revel Ground for displays of Cornish Dancing and Cornish Wrestling.

  • In the centre of the village there is a hotel/pub that serves local food and the road bends and heads south. Follow the road south to Week St Mary through Trelay and Langford Barton. As you approach Week St Mary, take the left turn which leads into the centre of the village. You'll see the impressive church tower as you approach the village.
  • On the church tower there are some fine carvings - look high up on the west side of the tower for hounds chasing a hare. The tall tower has been struck by lightning several times - in 1935 the south west pinnacle was hit during a hailstorm and fell into the church. There are impressive photos on the village website here.

    Behind a piece of castellated wall hides one of Weeks St Mary's most historic buildings - the Old College (now owned and restored by the Landmark Trust). The story began with the birth of the remarkable Thomasine Bonaventure in Week St Mary in 1450. She married three times, each marriage gaining her more money and status, until she was finally left the widow of Sir John Percival, the Lord Mayor of London. At this point Lady Percival returned to Week St Mary and began charity work. In 1506 she founded a school, with an endowment to pay for a schoolmaster to have graduated from Oxford or Cambridge, who would also pray for her soul in the parish church. 40 years later it was written about in glowing terms, but then suddenly something mysteriously caused the school's collapse and decay and the children were moved to a school in Launceston. To read the full story of the amazing Thomasine, see here.

    Originally the house would have been set in a square courtyard, and approached from a courtyard door opposite the front door - where the mainly 19th century house called 'New College' now stands (look out for the odd bit of Old College masonry in New College's wall). The windows either side of the door would have been gothic. If you peek around the back of the Old College you can see examples of these. The far, west, side of the building would have been much longer, and would have joined to further buildings filling the west side of the courtyard where there is now just a farm gate.

  • Follow the road through Week St Mary, turning right to Canworthy Water when the road forks, passing Week Orchard - a 17th century cob cottage with a thatch of wheat. Follow this road to Langdon where it ends in a T-junction. Turn left to Canworthy Water.
  • In Canworthy Water turn right and follow the road to Warbstow.
  • Warbstow Bury is the second largest and best preserved Iron Age fort in Cornwall with massive ramparts. It was built approximately 2500 years ago as a tribal stronghold and residence of the local aristocracy and was probably abandoned in the first century AD after the Roman conquest. There are panoramic views over the surrrouding countryside on a clear day. It was once the venue for an annual gathering of Methodists from the circuits of Camelford, Holsworthy and Launceston who assembled here on Whit Tuesday for an open air service.

  • Follow the road out of Warbstow past the Bury and then turn right at the crossroads to Trelash. Follow the road through Trelash to Otterham Mill and past Otterham to the A39.
  • On the A39 pass the 2 turnings to Marshgate and take the next right to Lesnewth. When you reach a junction turn left, then right at the T-junction which should take you past the church.
  • St Michael & All Angels in Lesnewth ('New Court') is a little further out from Boscastle, but is in a lovely location, just next to a deep-sided stream, marked by an ancient Celtic wayside cross. The original Saxon church was said to be built here in the dip to hide it from marauding Vikings at sea - but they found and sacked it nonetheless. Sadly little remains of the Norman church that followed; the present church is mostly Victorian, dominated by an impressively tall 15th century tower. On one of the walls inside is a nicely inscribed slate memorial, with a carved coat of arms.

  • Follow the road through Lesnewth down the hill round some bends until it comes out at a T-junction. Turn left and go through the Minster Valley.
  • Minster (St Merthiana's) Church set in Minster Wood - an ancient woodland in the Valency valley which has had continuous woodland cover for at least 400 years. The religious site dates back 1500 years to Celtic times and parts of the church there today date back to 1150. It was originally known as 'Tolcarne', which means 'rock chapel'. The church was restored twice after falling into disrepair so there are some features that date back to the Tudor period and others to Victorian times. In early spring it is surrounded by a carpet of daffodils. Look out for the mysterious carved scissors on the tower wall. No one knows why they're there! (more info)

  • Carry on past Minster Church and turn left at the crossroads. The lane comes out onto the B3266 - turn left onto the B3266 and follow the road past a staggered crossroads.
  • When you read a proper crossroads turn right. Follow the lane past Trevillet quarry until you reach a crossroads with a wayside cross at Fenterleigh.
  • In the medieval period, stone crosses were sometimes placed by the road or path. There have been various reasons for erecting these: markers placed along routes used by Christian pilgrims, or as a shrine in reverence, perhaps to a saint who has some connection to the locality. Others mark burial sites, a disaster, a miracle, or some other event that should be remembered. In some cases they were erected to mark meeting places for Christian worship and later churches were built adjacent to the cross, resulting in the cross being within the churchyard or close by.

    In Cornwall many of the wayside crosses are Celtic crosses. Scholars speculate that the Celtic Cross (a crucifix with a circular ring) developed from the sun cross (a cross inside a circle), a common symbol in artefacts of Prehistoric Europe, particularly during the Neolithic to Bronze Age periods. When Christianity came to the celtic regions, Christians extended the bottom spoke of this familiar symbol to remind them of the cross on which their new Savior was crucified. There are said to be 360 Wayside Crosses in Cornwall.

  • Turn left towards Trenale and follow the lane which comes out in Trewarmett next to the post box.