Backways Cove, Denis Point and Trebarwith Strand

1. From Park Farm walk up to the crossroads and take the lane going left to Treknow.
2. Not more than a few yards down, take the public footpath to the left which descends into Trebarwith Valley. Follow the footpath down along the right-hand hedge of the field and through a gate into a lower field.

The Trebarwith Valley Nature Reserve has a rich diversity of wildflowers and a thriving stream community in its unimproved meadowland. The area of Trebarwith Valley which is now the Nature Reserve was first used as agricultural land in the post-medieval period and it is likely that the path that runs through the reserve dates from this time, perhaps as a churchway linking farmsteads to the parish church.

The acidic local soil was fertilised with lime-rich beach sand from nearby Trebarwith Strand. The golden sand on the North Cornish coast is largely composed of sea shells which are mostly composed of calcium carbonate (chemically identical to chalk and limestone). The trade in sand led to road improvements in the early 19th century and consequently the Trebarwith Strand to Condolden road is known as "Sanding Road". Further up the coast at Bude, an extensive canal system was built to bring lime (created from processing the marine calcium carbonate in lime kilns) inland to fertilise the acidic moorland soils.

3. Half-way down the lower field, there is a style on the right. Cross over this and follow the path to the valley floor and over stream then climb the steps up to the road.
4. Walk down the road a short distance and take the farm track up to Fentafriddle.
5. A short way along a public footpath departs to the right. Follow this across the fields to a lane to Trebarwith Village.

If you are crossing fields with cows in:

• Do not show any threatening behaviour towards calves (approaching them closely, making loud noises or walking between a calf and its mother) as you may provoke the mother to defend her young. Generally the best plan is to walk along the hedges.
• If cows approach you, do not run away as this will encourage them to chase you. Stand your ground and stretch out your arms to increase your size.
• Avoid taking dogs in fields with cows, particularly with calves. If you must, release the dog if cows charge as the dog will outrun the cows and the cows will generally chase the dog rather than you.
6. Turn right in the lane which ends in a T junction. Turn right towards Trebarwith Farm.
7. Opposite Trebarwith Farm a track leads down into the fields towards the coast marked with a public footpath sign. Take this.
8. The track runs between 2 hedges and then a footpath comes off before it swings uphill to the right.
9. Take the footpath but instead of following it up the side of the valley, go through the gateway straight ahead and head along the bottom of the valley keeping the stream on your left.

Between Tregardock and Backways Cove is the remains of Treligga Aerodrome (HMS Vulture II). Both the observation/control tower and the reinforced hut near the sea (towards Backways cove) are derelict but still standing as is the accommodation and service huts near Treligga village.

Before the Second World War, HMS Vulture II was used as a glider site. However the Admiralty requisitioned 260 acres of land in late 1939 for the purposes of constructing an aerial bombing and gunnery range. Unusually, the entire operation at HMS Vulture II was staffed by the Women's Royal Naval Service.

On 16 September 1943 an American B-17 Flying Fortress was forced to make an emergency landing at HMS Vulture II. The pilot, Capt Jack Omohundro had ignored a red flare warning him to keep clear. The plane was chronically short of fuel and running on three engines after a raid on U-boat pens at Nantes in France. The bomber had left its formation to try and preserve what little fuel it had left. Spotting the tiny Treligga airstrip, he skillfully landed 'wheels-down' just 50 yards short of the Wrens quarters.

10. Eventually you reach Backways Cove.

Backways Cove features in "The International Directory of Haunted Places":

"Backways Cove, a North Cornwall inlet just up the coast from Trebarwith Strand, is still haunted by many unidentified presences who are thought to be the spirits of shipwrecked sailors whose bodies washed up there after they drowned. Numerous ships were torn apart on the jagged rocks offshore, and the shadowy spirits of their crew are still trying to make it to shore."

The valley at Backways cove is rich in wildflowers and heathland butterflies. Notably a species of wild Camomile grows here which is rare in the rest of the country. There is a story that a cow once went missing for 3 days at backways cove and reappeared staggering drunkenly after gorging on Camomile.

The 20ft diameter water wheel on the track from Trebarwith Village to backways cove was once used to power a threshing machine in Trebarwith Farm which prior to this had been powered by horses. The drive shaft that linked it to machinery at the farm is still underneath the road.

11. After exploring Backways Cove, if you are facing inland, climb the coast path up to Denis Point to your left (towards Trebarwith Strand).
12. At the top of Denis Point stop to admire the view and get your breath back. Follow the coast path along the cliff edge and down the cliff behind the Port William.
13. You might want to stop for a bit at Trebarwith to:
    • Stop for refreshments/revival in the Port Willy or the cafe next to the beach.
    • Have a swim or a rest on the beach
    • Do a short geology walk across the beach

    Several small beaches make up Trebarwith, which at low tide join to form a mile long ribbon of golden sand:

    • Port William round to the left is strewn with rocks except at the lowest point of the tide. It's popular with local surfers but not recommended for novices due to the rocks and strong currents.
    • Trebarwith Strand is in the centre and is the lifeguard-patrolled area. It's sandy on the left and to the right side there are more rocks including some good rock pools.
    • Lill Cove around to the right. There is a gully between rocks that make it possible to get through to Trebarwith when access is cut off by the sea (though at high tide this route isn't available). There is also a footpath up from Lill Cove joining the coast path that is accessible at all times of the tide.
    • Vean Hole further to the right is a continuation of Lill Cove once the tide is a little way out but is technically a separate beach
    • Hole Beach to the far right. There is some good snorkelling along the right-hand edge of Hole Beach and due to the large numbers of Sea Bass it's a good spot for beachcasting. Apart from at the lowest couple of hours of the tide, Hole Beach is cut off by the sea.
14. From Trebarwith Strand, walk up the lane from the beach until you reach the large Council car park on your right (after the smaller private car park opposite the road to the Port Willy).
15. Walk into the Council car park and down the slope in the back right-hand corner into a meadow.
16. Follow the footpath that leads up to Treknow from the meadow. The deeply cut holloway from the Treknow to Trebarwith Strand provided access to the harbour and a route for the pack animals to bring lime-rich sand from the beach to neutralise the acidic soil.

Treknow (which in Cornish means 'the valley place') is perhaps one of the oldest 'industrial' settlements in the area dating back to Medieval times, based mainly on slate quarrying with some early metal mining. The physical structure of Treknow - its bowl-like formation, in parts literally carved out of the rock - could be the result of early slate excavations. It was in direct response to the needs of industrial workers in the expanding quarrying industry of the early 19th century that the rows of cottages were constructed. The use of slate for roofs, chimneys, walls and paving, which contributes so greatly to their character, is further testimony to the dominant role of the local industry.

17. The path forks just before Treknow, take the left fork (more or less straight ahead) rather than the one that goes off to the right.
18. The path ends up in a lane. Walk up the lane into the centre of Treknow and turn right
19. Take the left turn up a slight hill which leads to Trewarmett

Map of Route

Display full-size map in a new tab